| Author |
Message |
    
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 14
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2005 - 7:53 pm: | 
|
Has anyone else out there tried the new Rollei R3 film. I've used a few rolls and I don't yet see any advantage to it. I used it at 400, but the true speed is 200 (according to Rollei), so it was pushed a little.
Ted |
Florian Divis (Flo)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Flo
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 9:56 am: |
|
Hi Ted
I tried some rolls out about a year ago. Frankly I was deeply disappointed. Due to the fact that the film originates from Rolley my expectations were enormous. Used it on 100 and 50 and developed it with CubeXS. Found the handling tiresome since the film is much thinner than others I tried. Although developed in Rollei's finegrain developer the visible grain was huge. I am working now with the Fuji Acros 100 @ 80 and develop it in Kodak D-76 for 8 Minutes. The results are stunning an you can do enlargements with a 6x6 negative to 35cm square without visible grain at all! |
Jürgen Loob (Jotloob)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Jotloob
Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2005
| | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 10:24 am: |
|
Flo
What kind of development process to you use (tank and movement) for the ACROS and have you also experience with exposure and development regarding the zone system for this film ? ? ?  |
Florian Divis (Flo)
Member ( <10 postings)
Username: Flo
Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 5:20 pm: |
|
Jürgen
You're right, this is small tank development.
So here is what I do:
1) exposure by zone system having the meter set to 80 ASA. That is exposure on zone III.
2) Loading the film on the reel and put the full reel into the water-filled tank. Presoak of 2 Minutes.
3) I then open the tank (in the dark of course), take out the reels, dispose of the water and fill in the developer 1:1 Kodak D-76 (dest. water).
4) development of film for 8 Minutes. 1st Minute constant movement (avg. one turn/backturn every 3 seconds). Every following 30 seconds two movements within 6 seconds.
5) Stop with Tetenal Stop Bath
6) Fix with Agfa Fixer for 5 Minutes (1st Minute constant movement then every 30 seconds 10 seconds)
7) Wash for 20 Minutes
8) Dry-Aid (Mahn 1:200) for 2 Minutes in standing water to avoid foam
9) Air-dry for 24 hours
If I have to push or pull the film for zone-system-reasons I adjust my development time by 15% for one stop push/pull and 40% for two stops push/pull.
Again: I find the results terrific. No grain visible in a ca. 40x enlargment (35x35cm).
In positive process I currently use the following material:
Paper: Agfa Classic 111 FB
Developer: Agfa Neutol 1:14 3 Minutes
Stop: any 20 seconds
Fix: Agfa 1:7 2 Minutes
Second Fix: Agfa 1:9 1 Minute
Wash-Aid: Kodak 1 Minute
Selenium: Kodak 1:30 for min. 3 Minutes
Wash-Aid: Kodak 3 Minutes
Final Wash in Monochrom Salthill: 60 Minutes |
Jürgen Loob (Jotloob)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Jotloob
Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2005
| | Posted on Monday, December 05, 2005 - 8:11 pm: |
|
Hello Flo
Thank you very much for your detailed information about your development of the ACROS film .
I will give you my understanding to your contribution.
8 Min is for a N exposed film . Then -15% is for a N-1 exposed film and -40% for a N-2 exposed film . Right ? ? ?
Now , if reducing the development time by 40% you will come under a 5 min time , which i think is very critical .
Please let me know if my logic is correct . |
Bob Edge (Bobedge3149)
Member ( <10 postings)
Username: Bobedge3149
Post Number: 7
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 06, 2005 - 12:49 am: |
|
Hi Flo
Hi Ted also. Flo, as an amateur I was interested to see you saying to pre soak film for a couple of minutes. This is the first time I have heard of this. Can I please ask you? Is this recommended for all films?
Have just tried out the enlarger meter I was typing about. Full review in that thread...
regards
bob... |
Florian Divis (Flo)
Member ( <10 postings)
Username: Flo
Post Number: 7
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2005 - 8:30 am: |
|
Hi everybody
Jürgen: of course you're absolutely right with your comment as to the critical time of 5 minutes.
The only thing I can say is that I was wrong  and that my N-2 time was rather around 30%-35% than 40%. So, sorry for the confusion. Pushing or pulling the film by 2 stops is a thing I hardly ever do. I'd rather wait for better light (softer or harder - depending).
Ted: regarding the presoak of film: this is recommended for films that have a "lightprevention-layer" (I do not know the correct english expression for "Lichthofschutzschicht" - maybe Jürgen??) such as rollfilm. I also understand from various ressources that it makes the film more responsive to the developer since the film is wet already. |
Ted Felton (Tfelton)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Tfelton
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2005 - 2:42 pm: |
|
> The original thread was about R3 film and all we've talked about is
> everything but R3. Regarding presoaking, I never asked about that. > The films I use, which are Kodak's Tmax and Tri-X, do not require > presoaking while R3 does.
I would still like to know about anyone's experience with Rollei R3.
Ted |
Florian Divis (Flo)
Member ( <10 postings)
Username: Flo
Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2005 - 3:33 pm: |
|
Sorry Ted.
The presoaking thing was intended for Bob but assume that this might have been interesting for others too.
No offence, but I am only responding to the questions that have arisen within this thread, what I also did iho with yours. |
Ted Felton (Tfelton)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Tfelton
Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2005 - 7:33 pm: |
|
> Thank you for your reply. I'm pushing for the R3 film because I > have been trying it lately and I feel that it does not handle high > contrast scenes very well. Is it just me? I've followed their > directions to the letter (including presoaking). Also, I've found > that the 35mm film is short. I use a Hasselblad Xpan and am > supposed to get 21 frames; however, with R3 I only get 20.
Ted |
