| Author |
Message |
    
Bob Edge (Bobedge3149)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Bobedge3149
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 1:40 pm: | 
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Hi, I have just joined the forum. Glad to see that there are still some of us who like to produce real photos, not just "virtual" ones.
Has anyone used the enlarger exposure meter mentioned in the subject? I would like to buy one, but it would be good to know how well they work first. Although they do give 14 day money back guarantee, but I feel it may take longer than this to decide I dont really want to use it. |
Florian Divis (Flo)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Flo
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2005 - 8:01 am: |
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Welcome Bob!
There is unfortunately not much ´traffic´in this forum so I gladly hang to everything that is being posted.
I use a Hauck enlarger exposure meter sometimes. The problem with this item is that you have to calibrate it (usually everytime you switch on) to your grayscale. So if you are very consistent with your neg density and have once found your optimum calibration ... yeah why not use it.
But if your are going to fine-printing you would treat each negative anew and not like any other before 
Good use I see for example if you have to enlarge some portraits where you want to have the same gray values in the skin. The exposure meter makes that easely possible.
What I also like is the possibility of very short exposure times (0.1s step anytime). But I guess with modern timers this would be possible anyway.
I would suggest: try it out and if you feel comfortable with the handling and all, take it. In the worst case you could just use it as a timer. |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Member ( <10 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 10
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2005 - 8:52 pm: |
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Bob,
Also, welcome to the forum. I've always wished we had more trafic here; however, I'm as guilty as anyone for not posting.
I've never use a meter in the darkroom since making a test strip is easy enough.
What type of photography and darkroom work do you do?
Ted |
Bob Edge (Bobedge3149)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Bobedge3149
Post Number: 4
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Monday, November 14, 2005 - 3:33 pm: |
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Hi, Flo, Ted,
To answer your question Ted, I take photo's of mainly people, still life, nature, and some abstract. Don't have any examples in digital form at the moment though.
I did my first printing session, after several years break, a few days ago. Had some good results, but the last negative I printed looked similar to the rest, magnification was only slightly higher, but it took hundreds of seconds, rather than tens. The first test strip was totally white. Guess I'v lost quite a bit of skill over the years.
The zone master is not like most meters. It has a grey scale with an led next to each tone. You take a reading on the highlight, this sets the time, & lights up the whitest part of the grey scale. You then take a reading from shadow detail. This sets the contrast to use, & lights up the darkest led. You then can take other readings, i.e. a skin tone. This will light an led somewhere in between. You can then adjust the time & contrast, this moves the led's up or down the scale, when your happy use the time & contrast displayed. It has some features for burning in too, not shure how this works yet.
In theory you should be able to visualise how the print will look without using a single peice of paper. Very interesting concept. Their web site is: http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/darkroom/index.html
Worth taking a look at, even if you know you don't want one. Would like to know how consistent it is though, don't want to calibrate the thing every session.
Bob... |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 11
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 4:31 am: |
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Bob,
Thanks for the link. I looked at the site and thought the timer was interesting. I'll have to give the site a longer look. I have to buy everything mail order since I live in Arkansas, USA, and there aren't any photogaphy stores in the whole state that have real equipment. Dallas and Memphis are the next closest and I don't think they have anything either.
Ted |
Bob Edge (Bobedge3149)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Bobedge3149
Post Number: 5
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 12:51 pm: |
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Ted,
Yes this is a big problem in the UK these days. If I go into a photography store & ask for anything to do with film they either look at me like I'm insane, or ask if I would rather buy a digital camera instead.
I did have a Leica digilux, but that was stolen. When the insurance money came through I went for a couple of Pentax ME Super SLR's & a bunch of lenses. It improved my photography no end. I have to think about what I'm doing now. Years ago I had a Zenith TTL. I have not yet bettered the results I got from this camera, But I'm geting there with the Pentax, now that I'm learning to use a virtually manual camera again. Less is deffo more for me when it comes to cameras.
Bob... |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 12
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 4:09 am: |
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Bob,
I teach photography at the community college in the county where I live. The maximum class size is 20 students (we have 20 b&w enlargers) and this is the first semester the class wasn't full (18 registered). We're keeping our fingers crossed for next semester. We hoping to offer a degree in photography starting with the fall, 2006, semester. I will also be teaching studio photography when that happens and digital will be a large part of the program. We're planning on getting a 4x5 with a digital back. We already have a 35mm sized digital for the advertising class. However, they will have to learn real photography before they will be able to use the digital.
Ted |
Bob Edge (Bobedge3149)
Member ( <10 postings)
Username: Bobedge3149
Post Number: 6
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 3:49 pm: |
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Ted,
Teaching photography sounds very interesting & rewarding. I am thinking of doing a course myself. Not that i need to learn any of the technical side, but it would be interesting to have some assignments to do. The biggest problem with my photography is lack of inspiration.
I have now ordered a Zone Master II, and am awaiting delivery. I will let you know how it works out.
Bob... |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 13
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Friday, December 02, 2005 - 4:00 am: |
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> Sounds good. Let me know how it works.
Ted |
Bob Edge (Bobedge3149)
Member ( <10 postings)
Username: Bobedge3149
Post Number: 8
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 06, 2005 - 1:24 am: |
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Hi Ted, Hi Flo
Received the long awaited zone master today.
I have printed roughly 10 negatives, ranging from a little under exposed, to a little over.
The results on the first few prints were a little dissapointing. However I found I quickly learned how to use the Instrument. It tended to print a little dark for me. So I compensated for this using intuition really. Excelent results. Tried neg's at varyous enlargments and various contrast settings (using Ilford MG4 & Ilford MG Filters the zone master comes calibrated fot this setup). What can I say? 32 Sheets of 8X10 used. Four of them trashed. Say goodbye to test strips.
Bob... |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 18
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 10:02 pm: |
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Bob,
Sorry for the late post. I've been away for a while. How do you like the RH timer now that you've had a while to use it. I'm assuming it's the f-stop type. Do you like that better than a straight timer and also how fine can you divide the f stops.
Ted |
Bob Edge (Bobedge3149)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Bobedge3149
Post Number: 19
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, February 03, 2007 - 1:50 pm: |
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Hi Ted,
Welcome back.
Since I had already made an enlarger timer I bought the zonemaster 2. It's exactly the same thing but with no built in timer.
I am very pleased with its performance. It comes with a negative to calibrate it for the paper types you use, and already has settings for Ilford Multigrade IV.
It really is a fantastic peice of kit. After an hour to get used to how it works It is possible to print almost any negative first time. No test strips,or test prints. You can also use it to calculate burn in times with ease.
Some badly exposed negatives may take a couple of tries to get right.
The f stops are set to 1/12th steps by default, this is the finest setting possible.
Bob... |
Jorge M. Treviño (Jorgemtrevino)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Jorgemtrevino
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 2:57 am: |
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Hi Ted,
I've been using my RH StopClock and ZoneMaster II for a few years now. Even tho I don't get into my darkroom to print as often as I'd like to, both have proven invaluable to keep me going at a moment's notice (or whim). If it were not for them and my Nova monochrome vertical processor, which is kept ready to use, I can go into the darkroom at anytime and come out a few minutes or a coupke of hours later with a batch of good prints.
The timer is the most intuitive thing you will find to correct a print exposure. Since it works in fractions of f/stop, you just naturally judge how much more or less exposure in terms of f/stops a print needs. If you are in the least acquainted with the zone sistem, that's a no-brainer. You can set it to 1/3, 1/4, 1/6 or 1/12 steps. I keep mine at 1/6 which is about the finest I correction I need and it lets me use half and third stops. Of course, the 1/12 setting allows for 1/4 stop corrections but I find that overkill.
The Zonemaster, once you put it through a few prints will let you get quasi-perfect prints at the first time. It's quite easy to use and understand and is the best enlarging meter you will find anywhere. It links to the StopClock via a simple cable and transmits your selected settings to the timer. Nevertheless, you can make corrections in any of them at any time.
Dr. Richard Ross (the inventor/owner) is a gent and will upgrade any old timer or meter as possible for a nominal fee. I'll be sending mine soon for the latest firmware upgrade.
Cheers,
--Jorge. |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 19
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 7:48 pm: |
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I just sent an email to RH inquiring about shipping and customs duties. The price will be close to $400 so I'll have to do a little planning. My current timer is Kearsarge 403 but, unfortunatley, is no longer made.
Ted |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 20
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 12:55 am: |
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I just ordered the StopClock Pro. I'll give a report when I get it and have a chance to use it. Probably sometime next week.
Ted |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 21
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Friday, February 23, 2007 - 2:11 am: |
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I started using the StopClock today and it will take awhile to get up to speed. There's a lot more button pushing with this than with a standard timer. I'll be using it again tomorrow.
Ted |
Ted E. Felton (Ted)
Active Member ( <30 postings)
Username: Ted
Post Number: 22
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Monday, February 26, 2007 - 4:31 am: |
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Well, I finally got the StopClock Pro hooked up and running. At first I was a little worried that I had made a mistake getting it. I read the instruction manual before I received it and realized it was not going to be as easy as my Kearsarge timer. It seemed like a Rube Goldberg contraption. The first day was not successful. I think I tried too much with the timer. However, the second day I deceided just to start making prints and let come what may with regards to the features of the timer. Everything worked well, and the second day I was enjoying the timer and getting used to its functions. I actually started thinking in terms of stops rather and percentages or seconds.
Ted |
Jorge M. Treviño (Jorgemtrevino)
New member (<5 postings)
Username: Jorgemtrevino
Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2007 - 8:33 pm: |
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Ted,
That's exactly what you should do. If, eventually, you find the need to treat some negatives to a split grade printing scheme, or to have multiple burn-in and dodge printing maps, you will find how invaluable the specialized functions for these two scenarios are. For me, those "special" negatives that require virtuous and ellaborate printing, are tamed by means of small sized RC work prints --say 8x10- before going on to "exhibition sized" FB prints. The ability of the timer to keep multiple exposure sequences and to adjust them proportionally in a super easy manner, allows me to go from one exposure value to another several multiples larger without need to reprogram the timer.
You will find out that in time when the occasion arises.
Good luck and happy printing!
--Jorge. |
